Concealment matters more than you think

Concealment is not to hide the gun from non-threats.

‘Normal people don’t look’ is a silly and irrelevant statement. Please, before you make another post or comment including ANYTHING near that sentiment, understand this:

Normal people don’t commit violent crimes.
Normal people are not who we defend ourselves against.

It is most important to hide our tools AND our intent/skills from those who would harm us. Why? Because surprise is an excellent tool and if we don’t have the element of surprise, we surrender it to our would be attackers.

Also remember that we all share something in common with those who seek to harm us: we constantly evaluate those around us.

Gun people check. Bad guys ARE GUN PEOPLE and they are typically better at concealing AND spotting other gun people than us. They have to be. They have more skin in the game than you do because their job requires it. They have more practice at it because it is a daily work hazard that they must contend with.

If they suck at concealment or seeing concealed weapons and skills on others, they get fired (at) quickly. Plenty of these guys have LONG successful careers.

When these people see you carrying, they often see your gun as an enticing prize to be won rather than viewing you as a threat. Many of them acquired their guns through mugging armed defenders like yourself.

If you are playing the ‘hard target’ game, be sure that you are actually a hard target to a person that may have already been to prison, shot and stabbed people and enjoyed it or did it with no emotion at all. Be sure that you are a hard enough target to dissuade a group of these people who are hungrier than you’ve ever been. If you aren’t sure that you could do that, don’t play that game. It’s a stupid game, and you know what kind of prizes those games offer.

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Who We Are

US population

50.5% women
34% over 50
37.9% of men are obese
41.1% of women are obese
26% of adults have a disability

44.7% of all make LESS than $30k annually

You may think you’re the dude on the right. -Genetically gifted, young, fit, rich and connected.

Most of us have more in common with the dude on the left (Ephialtes).

If you ARE the dude on the right, you should understand that the majority of people aren’t you and recognize the gear you use is ridiculous for others that are not Spartan kings like yourselves.

If you are closer to the dude on the left you should give up the cringeworthy and phony warrior-king persona and live the life you are capable of. Adopt gear that best suits your reality/mission/capabilities.

Don’t train because you want to feel like a Spartan. Train because you take responsibility for the safety of your loved ones and yourself. That is SO much more badass.

Don’t carry a shield you can’t lift, or a gun you can’t afford to shoot often, or one you can’t carry always, or one you can’t run single handed while injured.

Also- I’m really against the romanticized Spartan/mOLAn lAaBE/sheepdog/gun stickers on my everything nonsense that is so widespread in the ‘defense community’.

Don’t be the phony on the left pretending to be a Spartan. Don’t be the jerk on the right telling others they can’t defend themselves unless they carry X.

Why I choose a 22 snub

Why do I carry a 22 snub revolver?

While the LCR22 has 160% capacity of a 38 snub, I feel the LCR22 is more than double the capability of the 38 or 357 snub as a fighting gun and defense tool.

While my best drill scores with the 22 are similar to the best scores from the 38, the lcr22 was a giant step up when comparing my worst runs across both guns.

This is highlighted even more when I compare my worst runs to my preferred semi auto. The recoilless DAO snub runs for me even when I’m screwing it all up.

And that’s really what we should look at.

How do we do on our worst day?

What setup mitigates the most commonly encountered problems best?

What gear allows the biggest lapses in our ability?

Because we aren’t betting our lives on our performance on our best days.

What gun do I want when I’m halfway beaten to death, concussed, broken and blinded?

…I may be in that condition at my first opportunity to access my gun.

I’m accused of being a freak of nature or ‘naturally gifted’ by people who try to paint the things I teach as something impossible for the average person. I’m quite the opposite and I am acutely aware of my ability to fuck-up very simple things. My carry gear and practices reflect this.

Choose a gun so small and light I have no excuse not to carry it.

Choose a carry method so concealed that to expose the gun would require removing my pants so I need not worry as much about a shirt riding up, a hug from a child, or bump grabs from a predator.

Choose a caliber so manageable that I can fire with a single injured hand with an incomplete grip in a dazed semi-conscious state.

Choose a gun so simple in operation as to not need to divide my training time among less likely scenarios like malfunction clearance drills.

If it is good in that losing fight, odds are good it will be just fine in better circumstances.

Morning Dry Fire (1)

Diagnostics day. Isolate the suck and eliminate it.

All iterations should be recorded for 10 rep average.

Tactile (No eyes. No sights. No target)

This is best done with a phone app shot timer that can pick up a dry fire click. I use Make Ready.

  • Reaction time
    • From full presentation.
    • From strong hand only presentation
      • On beep, trigger press
        • Average: 0.3sec
        • Elite: 0.2sec

*I was running this at 0.2-0.25sec a few years ago. This morning, 4AM with a half cup of coffee onboard, the best I could manage was 0.31sec. That is important when considering total presentation time. I was managing C-zone hits at 7yd from concealment in 0.81sec this week. Assuming my reaction time was the same as this morning, 37% of my draw time is spent realizing that it is time to start moving.

  • Draw
    •  Thumb pectoral
      • Without concealment garment
      • From concealment
    • Single Hand Presentation
      • Without concealment garment
      • From concealment
    • Full Presentation
      • Without concealment garment
      • From concealment

*there is no measurable difference for me between any of these with concealment. This means that managing the concealment garment is no longer a time-adding factor. There is only 0.1sec time savings to draw to a thumb pectoral index over single or full presentations. My average time is 0.7sec for single hand and full presentation. This means that on a 1sec draw to COM-A (center of mass, a zone), 30% of the time is spent strictly on seeing/deciding when to press the trigger. If you watch my slow motion footage here it is painfully visible.

Visual (No click. No draw. No cheating)

This is best done with a phone app shot timer using short par times. You must know the length of the beep. Mine is 0.3sec on the Make Ready app. This part is all visual. We are setting par times and reducing them until the beep happens before we can reliably complete the drill.

Sighting Time

  • Gross Sighting
    • From compressed ready facing target
    • From full presentation, eyes on sights 90 degrees from target
      • On beep, achieve sight picture necessary to achieve C zone @5yd
        • Reduce par time until you fail.
  • Precision Sighting
    • From compressed ready facing target
    • From full presentation, eyes on sights 90 degrees from target
      • On beep, achieve sight picture necessary to achieve hit on 4” square @5yd
        • Reduce par time until you fail.

*There is a large (and growing) gap in my gross and precision sighting. This is no surprise to me as my prescription eyewear is getting thicker. It takes me an additional half second or so to achieve a sight picture with the iron sights on my LCR. This time is reduced significantly when using any red dot sight and even more when using a green laser. For gear selection alone, this drill is worthwhile to establish realistic time expectations.

Summary

Of the 1 second it takes to draw to a COM-A hit:

  • 37% is used to start moving
  • 30% is used to start shooting
  • that leaves 33% of total time for ALL of the doing

Seeing that breakdown has shifted my focus to processing information faster. For improvement on the initial shot, my efforts are better spent on computer speed games than on live fire reps. These exercises may reveal something very different for you.

Test it. Quantify the suck. Eliminate it. 

More to come.

Controlling Recoil

Controlling recoil is no different than controlling a sparring partner. If the opponent is weaker than you, no special technique is necessary. Strength and driving power will defeat that opponent with application of any technique.

Things change when the strikes delivered by your opponent are enough to cause you physical injury or immediate loss of consciousness. These strikes exist in boxing opponents and in shooting platforms.

When blocking a cross thrown from a boxer, if the punch strikes harder than can be controlled by simple grip (checking the punch) then a fighter must brace for the impact and receive the force over as broad a surface as possible. Part of this requires distributing force over the largest surface area on the body as possible (example: taking a punch meant for the jaw on a curled blocking arm instead). Another part is distributing that force as rapidly as it is applied. For the boxer and for the shooter managing stout recoil, this means bracing for impact in a way that immediately and efficiently channels and distributes forces in the largest muscle bearing joints, across as many of those joints as possible, simultaneously.

Unremarkably, the muscles, tensioning pattern, and strength involved in a shooter using a clinch technique to manage recoil are the same as a fighter clinching and blocking a roundhouse kick to the head. The body squares to the epicenter of the strike, stiffens at the most delicate joints (wrists and elbows) without locking. The muscles of the torso, torque and torsion; maximizing clamp load in the body. Back and core muscles meet each other in mutual tension against each other. This pairs with a small but extremely muscularly reinforced drive of the shoulder and pectoral muscles into each other, creating an upper body that is muscularly locked and collapsed in neutral joint space.

We must create structure that is stiff and unyielding to minor shocks, but results in a structure that is excellent at accepting and diffusing high impulse impacts- like that of a Thai boxer’s roundhouse, or the recoil of a heavy 12ga load. A fighter receiving a kick while clinching in this manner may look nearly stationary during the event and may not show much give or acceptance of energies in that blow, until you look at the event on a high speed camera.

Viewing the event in slow motion reveals the magic of the clench technique. As the blow impacts the curled arm, the tissue of the arm, rigid from being flexed, starts to absorb energy, robbing the strike of velocity and snap before the striking surface of the kick (opponents shin) meets bones on the blocking surface. As the shin drives deeper into the blocking surfaces, the radius, ulna and humerus collapse into each other, arms collapse into chest, structures bolstered by pre-tensioned muscle tissues connected to those structures. Massive muscles of the shoulder receive energy and channel it into the large supporting structures of the chest and back, finally distributing it down the torso. What you see at speed is a massive energy transfer at the blocking surface, diminished into the slightest of rearward travel at the base, resulting in a small shuffle rearward.

It is important to understand that this type of energy transference is happening across these structures simultaneously, rather than sequentially. Clenched muscle tension is vital to making this work, as only a tensed structure transfers energy fast enough to recruit surrounding structures in absorbing extremely short duration, high intensity, shock energy like that of a whipped roundhouse kick… or a trigger press delivering 00buck.

This isn’t all of the recoil management process, but without this, the rest is of little worth.

I’ll save discussing the use of sequential sacrificial structures in recoil mitigation for another post where I will draw comparison between highway barricades or runaway truck ramps and the standard method of recoil mitigation in shotgun technique.

The Land of Diminishing Returns

I’m often asked ‘how much training is enough?’

Popular answers vary little. Most include some variation on the ideas that no amount is enough to stop, or any amount that you can afford is the minimum. Great. Thanks for that. Throw my life at every single thing I do. Got it.

Thing is, as a great urban sage once uttered, ‘ain’t nobody got time for that’.

Those are great paths to aimless mediocrity.

What else is wrong with those commonly spouted responses?

I’m not a fan of such nebulous answers. When I ask a question I want something more definite. I want something that is quantitatively measured. While the answer to this question is certainly not a single number of hours or classes that every person should strive for, I believe there is a way to quantify the amount of training necessary to put you in the ‘better than most who try’ category, which is where we ought to be (at minimum) in any task we want to be good at.

The terms generic training, fundamentals training, or basic training all express a similar idea at their root. They teach the mass of skills that are applicable in MOST situations, making the focus mastery of the concepts and repetition of a base set of drills to the point of diminishing returns.

The upper end of this point can always be measured as an average of experts ability on any of the standardized drills used to teach and quantify performance on a set of standards.

The lower end of the diminishing returns threshold is the point at which any individual first experiences the drop off in training returns. All of us owe it to ourselves to train to THIS point in anything we endeavor to do well in life. Anything before this point is generally ‘below average’ amongst peers who are endeavoring to master the same skill set. In other words, anything before this point is dabbling- not training.

So there it is- simply defined. How much should you train? Always train beyond the point of quantifiable diminishing returns. Next, train to the accepted experts level of diminishing returns using their standards and measurement criteria.

How do you know the experts level of diminishing returns? Simple. Find the lowest acceptable performance in any metric for professional performance. It may be a failure rate. It might be a speed and accuracy standard that is agreed upon by multiple experts (like the sub 1 second draw at a 7yd COM A). It will ALWAYS be measured quantitatively- pass/fail or a numerically expressed score.

Approaching performance at that level should always focus on the area with the lowest hanging fruit. Attack the parts of your desired skill that have the easiest gains. Attack the parts that give you the largest gains. If you can clean a B8 drill every time, but can’t ever stick a 1 second draw at any distance, you are doing it WRONG. Analyze your performance framed by your goals, focus on one area, and drill it until it is a strength. Reassess. Repeat.

The focus, for the vast majority of tasks, should always remain in fundamentals training. Specialized training has a time and a place that it should be considered and approached. That time is AFTER achieving an experts level of diminishing returns on fundamentals, and/or AFTER reaching a point where mastery of a specialized skill set becomes more important than the fundamentals.

If you are a breacher and carry a shotgun as a breaching tool, it may be more important to master the specialty training of shotgun breaching before or alongside the journey to mastering general shotgun proficiency. If you are not in this role, dedicating precious mental facilities to accomplishing a task that will likely never be needed from you is at best a waste of time and at worst a deadly distraction that puts you further from skills mastery that could have saved your life.

In short, drive to achieve standards of fundamental skills set by the experts. Let ‘good enough’ be determined by performance on quantitatively measured tests and drills.

Think about it. You know plenty of idiots that graduated the same school you did. They did the same training. What is important is your scores in comparison to the best. Not the amount of time spent at study or the place that you learned.

Train yourself to the point of diminishing returns. Teach yourself how to learn. Then, identify your weak points (still talking fundamentals here). Seek training from an expert who does well in addressing THOSE weak points.

If you can’t approach ANY task and train yourself to the point of general novice understanding, with the use of Google, THAT is your weak point. No amount of classes will help you, because you don’t know how to learn. Most people can train themselves far beyond novice levels of performance in any task without any formal training. The internet has really changed the game in self teaching. Use it. Get as much as you can on your own first. By doing so, you’ll get much more out of the professional training that you seek, and you will likely find better instructors for that teaching.

Get as much as you can by yourself. Know what you want before you seek instruction. Get the best instruction for the skill you are focused on. Quantify your goals and gains. Live in the land of diminishing returns.

Shotguns

2020 Update: Since writing this I have become a shotgun guy. I read this now with the reaction that anyone should hope for when viewing their past self. My reaction: That wasn’t as terrible as I expected and there’s still more good feelings than cringe. There is some cringe. Let me address it.
Since training extensively with 12 gauge for the past 3 years, I have changed many of my views on the shotgun. I still view it as significantly more of a liability for the casual shooter, when compared to most ARs or the wave of PCCs that have become popular recently. I now view the shotgun as an extremely effective defense tool for anyone that takes the time to train. For the trained shooter, no other platform delivers results as immediately as the shotgun. That fact right there has high worth in defense considerations.
While the platform is typically low capacity, leaving the shooter with a small quantity of opportunities to make hits, the quality of those hits are high. This makes for a more conservative fighting tactic and a shooter that is more careful with application of trigger presses. Inside the US, and inside our homes where we are far more likely to encounter a family member than a bad guy, perhaps a more conservative application of force is warranted.
Alright… now read the original, knowing that I’ve changed my mind on some things.

I am NOT a shotgun guy.

I did not grow up shooting clays or hunting fowl. I do not live in an area with large enough dangerous wildlife to warrant carrying a shotgun in the wilderness. If I did, I have plenty of smaller, lighter, options in firearms to carry into the woods that would do just as well or better against dangerous wildlife. As for home defense, there is an AR next to my bed. So why am I talking about shotguns?

When I ask people what gun they have the most training with, almost every person I ask says it is their carry pistol.

When I ask what gun they would most like to have with them in their ‘SHTF’ fantasy, most say it is their carbine.

When I ask what gun they use for home defense, the overwhelming response is ‘my shotgun, of course!’

I wince every time.

It baffles me that the person who has said that they have most of their training on a pistol, and are most comfortable with a carbine STILL selects option C.

Option C, the option that is empty the fastest and slowest to reload. The option with the slowest shot to shot recovery. The option that has the least amount of compatible training with other platforms. The option with the most expensive training ammo. The option with the least light and optics compatibility. The option that is far too long to pie corners in most homes’ cramped hallways.

Now you know where I stand in the shotgun debate. Let me talk about why I still own one and where I use it.

Shotguns are CHEAP. Pump shotguns, specifically, are the best combination of dirt cheap, durable, reliable, and simple maintenance for any application where a gun needs to be staged in less than ideal conditions. You are more likely to use the thing as a tool if you can afford to replace it. I can easily reason that when it comes to getting a shotgun wet, banged up, dragged in dirt, etc, for DAILY use it bothers me much less to do so with a shotgun than if I had to do the same with my carry pistols  and carbines. I have plenty of tools in my garage that are worth more than my ‘beater pump’. This means that the crappy pump gun can go on ALL journeys with me.

My truck gun of choice is the beater pump. Its general shape lends to easier storage in all the vehicles I have owned. Its cheap cost makes it an easy write off if the vehicle is destroyed, or worse… stolen. If stolen; better to lose a bare bones, Walmart variety, pump gun than an expensive carbine and all the accessories attached to it. For defensive encounters on the road, the 12g pump gun can be loaded to perform well for anything you are likely to encounter in the US (More on how I prefer to load that pump later). I have options for precise shots to 100yd, or tight buckshot spread out to 50yd. Both options will have plenty of energy on target after passing through a car door and/or auto glass. If I throw in a box of cheap #7 birdshot next to that gun, I now have an option to take some small game when I am out camping. Did I mention that they are cheap enough to buy one for every vehicle and still be below the cost of a single carbine with an optic?

My trail gun of choice is… an AR, but my second choice is my beater pump. Why? I know that I will be able to ‘lay down some hurt’ most effectively with my AR. Often, that is not the primary concern. Often times, I want to have a long gun, but not scare/piss off the local hippies on the trails I backpack on. Shotguns are a more comfortable sight than black rifles. Many people will argue against this, spitting out some cliché BS about the sound of racking a pump making bad guys wet their beds in the next county. (If you are that guy, I want to let you know that every time you have gone there, you lost all credibility as a shooter and ‘defense tactician’…) People are more comfortable seeing another person with a shotgun vs a carbine because there is so much exposure to the stereotype of ‘Bob the American hunter’ with a long gun over his shoulder (no scary protruding magazine), hiking fields, repairing fences, defending his home from Grizzlies. It is viewed more as a tool of food acquisition than a tool of war. It is because of this IMO that I get far fewer dirty/concerned looks from passing hikers when I have my shotgun slung over shoulder vs. when I have a light pack carbine.

That’s it. That is what it’s good for. A disposable truck gun. A PC-ish trail gun.

Here’s how I load it. A tube full of Federal Flite Control 00buck and a side-saddle full of Federal Truball Deep Penetrator 1oz slugs is what I recommend.  Flite Control 00buck will work just as well on the bad guy hiding behind his car door 25yds away as it will on the downed animal in the middle of the highway, needing to be put down. It will also hold a man-sized pattern out to 50yds in my 20″ cylinder bore tube. For reference, The Walmart brand ‘military 00buck’ holds the same man-sized group at only 12yds out of the same gun. The standard rule for spread is 1″ of spread for every 1yd of distance out of any cylinder bore tube. Federal Flite Control does significantly better than standard. As for the side-saddle full of slugs, I want to be clear; ALL SLUGS ARE NOT THE SAME. The standard variety 1oz foster slug you see on most shelves in the sporting goods stores are meant for game no larger than a person. In gel, a 1oz foster slug will only get 14″ of penetration. This is devastating on soft targets like people and worthless on hard targets like angry moose, grizzly bear, or people behind cover (cars/walls). Targets with large body mass and thick hide will need something with more penetration. Brenneke slugs are what is typically recommended, but Federal’s new hardened Truball Deep Penetrator offers similar penetration at half the price. Folks at Federal, if you are reading- Please send me free stuff. I will continue to recommend your products. Oh yeah, the beater pump also sports an old model Fenix LD20 attached with Home Depot’s finest tube clamps. The mount has around 500 shells on it with no issues. Cheap. Effective. NOT high speed.

I find no worthwhile defensive use for the shotgun outside of the roles of truck gun and trail gun. This is especially true in the new world of $400 ARs. If prices on ARs drop much further, I may only hold a scatter gun for one season a year, and only in the hopes that I can put some small game in the freezer. Thanks for the read!